Camino was drowned

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Tue 21 Apr 2009, 18:08

Well now I need to play with the carb because it will not stay running for long. It runs but it seems that the fuel bowl inlet is not allowing the bowl to refill with fuel. If I try to restart when it stalls it does not start, if I leave the bike for an h our it will start no problems and run for two minutes and stall, again it will not restart for an hour or if it does restart after half an hour it barely runs and stalls.

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Thu 23 Apr 2009, 18:52

I just found the instructions from Ironbird8280 for how to take down the engine and remove the carb easily.
http://www.camino-tuning.be/howto-manua ... 22610.html
YAY.
I have had to try twice now to get the carb to start working and not leak. Very easy with proper instructions and pictures.
Thank you.

Sander · Post by **Sander** » Thu 23 Apr 2009, 20:11

Indeed it's a very good manuel

killingsnake · Post by **killingsnake** » Thu 23 Apr 2009, 23:57

Is your problem solved now you cleaned the carb? Otherwise, you can try checking your fuel lines for any blockage.

klainstain · Post by **klainstain** » Fri 24 Apr 2009, 19:32

Nice camino
But I don't like the springs so much ..

Good luck with it !

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Wed 29 Apr 2009, 17:25

I have a temporary fuel tank from a lawn mower and new lines at this time so I can take it off completely and work indoors so I am out of the cold. I have finally got the engine to run well and it idles so that is one less problem. I still need to get a airfilter holder so I can put in an airfilter. We have tar and gravel roads so I need to have an airfilter on to ride and not take a gamble.
Next I need to do the wiring as the only two wires connected right now is the black/white to the ignition coil and the sparkplug wire.

Sander · Post by **Sander** » Wed 29 Apr 2009, 20:43

Maybe i can help you with the wiring, wich color of cabels come out of the motor ? Normally their are 4 cabels

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Thu 07 May 2009, 22:19

sander thank you for the offer to help with the wiring. I did not post back sooner because I am very busy working on the farm to get fields ready and planted.
Coming from the generator is
Green, Pink, Red
Going to the back of the bike harness is
Blue Dark, Blue Light, Brown, Orange, White
Going up to the steering is
Blue Dark, Blue Light, Brown, Green, Grey, Orange, Pink, Red, White

I started to just match the colours but stopped as there are extra colours in some of the harness and nothing matching on where I thought it would go. The harness at the top of the steering behind where the headlight would go is not connected to anything at all so I think I am stuck for the wiring.

killingsnake · Post by **killingsnake** » Thu 07 May 2009, 22:59

Coming from the generator:

Green: Is the power source for your brake switch for the brakelamp.
Red: Powersource for both the front and the taillamp. the wire goes to the front of the camino, where it is connected to a switch. There it splits 2 ways, 1 brown cable to the front lamp and a brown that goes all the way to the rear. The front lamp is grounded via the blue wire, same goes for the taillamp and brakelamp at the back.

Pink: used for the turnlamps i guess. You probally have a camino that never had any turnlamps, but honda used to make the same wiring harness for all types of camino, including the customs wich had turninglamps..

Wich explains the other, unused cables

Bike harness:

Blue dark is the grounding for the brakelamp, as I already said
Blue light is a cable for turning lamps, unsused. Same goes for orange.
The white cable is the power cable for the brake light. It comes from a splitter wich is connected to your brakeswitch. If i remember correctly the splitter is implemented inside your switch.

Steering:

Same colours mentioned above are usless here to, grey is meant for the winker switch.

blue dark, as mentioned, grounding for the front lamp
brown ones i already explained to, power sources for the lamps
red is the power source for both lamps, splitted via the switch
white cable leads to your braking switch on one end, the other leads to your resistor witch is placed behind your lamp housing..

I think you'll find this pretty usefull..

Post by **GoBieN** » Fri 08 May 2009, 18:36

Elektricity:
The hard but correct way (As described by Killingsnake):
[album]2820[/album]
[album]165[/album]

My own simple way (no brake or turnlights):
[album]2822[/album]
Legend
Voorlicht: Headlight
Achterlicht: Taillight
Kader: Frame
Weerstand: Resistor (type: 1ohm/30Watt from moped shop, it was a model to be screwed on the frame).

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Sat 09 May 2009, 18:01

Thank you both very much for the information and diagrams. It is supoed to rain tonight so that is a good time to do some wiring work on the Camino, I will print copies and bring them with me.

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Tue 12 May 2009, 22:51

YAY THANK YOU
Now I have lights - headlight - tail light - brake light PERFECT!

I have to bring the engine down again because the fuel gremlin is back and it runs for a few minutes then shuts down again. I disconnected the fuel line in case it was blocked at the fuel tap but it did not change it at all. I know it is a blockage at the fuel inlet to the carb or a fuel vent problem maybe because the fuel in the fuel line will very slowly feed into the carb then the bike starts immediately once it stops. It seems the fuel is taken by the motor faster then it can go to the carb. Time to clean the carb again.

killingsnake · Post by **killingsnake** » Tue 12 May 2009, 23:01

Remember to clean it well, don't forget the air channel behind the air mixture screw. That tends to give problems sometimes.. Glad to hear your lights work

. Do you still use that other fuel tank, or do you use the standard tank

Normally, there should be a little air vent inside the fuel cap. Otherwise, the fuel tank's presure will get lower then the outside pressure and the fuel won't come out anymore. (compare it to holding your thumb on top of a straw. Your soda remains inside even when you lift it up, outside the fluid.

Sometimes this gives the problem you have.. Your engine runs fine for a while (presure is equalized), but after a while the pressure can't remain the same, starts to drop, and so prevents the fuel from exiting the tank. Engine shuts down, after a while the presure equalizes slowly (your cap isn't completely air tight), and you can start the engine again; for a while.

Try keeping the engine running with a clean fuel cap, or no fuel cap at all for testing this. If you still have problems, forget all this

rebelmob · Post by **rebelmob** » Wed 13 May 2009, 18:30

I will be removing the carb again and giving it another cleaning and I will need to pay attention to the air channel because the air mixture screw does not seem to have any function at all except for if I screw it in all the way until it is seated then the bike stops and does not go at all.
I am still using the other tank because I need to get a fuel valve for the original tank. Most fittings that I can get around here are for North American vehicles so they are imperial measure and the tank needs metric so I need to find the proper one and not make something up because it might look like a drunk plumber's mistake. The cap has a screw to let the air into the tank and you must open the screw before you start the engine. The screen for the fuel valve is clear on this tank I use this for any small engine when I work on the engine so I only need to mix a small quantity of fuel as a lot of 2T engines take all sorts of different mixtures of oil. I only mix a half litre usually for testing.
Is the fuel vent in the cap on the original cap and what do I look for so I can make sure it is clean.

killingsnake · Post by **killingsnake** » Wed 13 May 2009, 21:30

I don't have any original cap anymore, sorry. Most people have caps with locks in it. The air mixture screw is actually very important. As you probally know, this regulates your air/fuel mixture. To much fuel, your engine will get to hot, won't perform very good and its bad for your spark plug. If you cut of the air completely, thats what you do when you turn the screw in all the way, the engine will stall (no air, no fire/explosion, no running engine)

Not enough fuel in the mixture, the explosion will get more violently, your engine will also get very hot, and you have a high chance to break it.

HondaCaminoTuning.be

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